1.Mark the ground
Decide where you want to place the tree.
2. Measure the diameter of the tree’s root ball or pot.
Measure the width of the root ball, bare roots or pot in order to establish the width of the hole required.
3. Measure the depth of the hole
If necessary, dig out more soil to reach the desired depth.
Remove the string from the head if tied, keeping the head from being damaged whilst the tree is laid flat. Carefully carry or roll the tree into the hole.
DO NOT PLANT DEEPER THAN THE TREE WAS ORIGINALLY GROWING IN THE FIELD OR POT.
Stand back and view the tree as a helper slowly rotates it. Look for the tree’s best face (every tree has one) and position it so the face is aimed in the most prominent direction.
4. Backfill the hole
Mix compost, fertiliser and Empathy mycorrhizal fungi into the soil pile, thoroughly mix up the soil, and then start shovelling it into the hole. Be sure to check that the soil is firm all around the bare roots or root ball, being careful to not leave any voids in the surrounding soil.
We recommend that you water the tree for a couple of minutes.
You can spread 3 inches of bark mulch over the exposed soil around the tree, but ensure to keep it away from the trunk of the tree as mulch can trap moisture and promote rot. Also, trees breath through the bark, so anything round the trunk will cause the tree to suffocate and slowly die. If strimming near the tree, make sure that you do not strim the bark as this will also cause the tree to die.
Stake the tree with appropriately sized tree stakes, if necessary use two stakes and a baton of wood between the two and tie the tree to it. Use tree straps or ties and a tree block, as these will not damage the tree’s stem/bark. If using a single stake for a bare rooted or container grown tree, drive in the stake prior to planting then place the tree against the stake.
** Water the tree as necessary, daily in hot, dry or windy conditions for the next year or so **
16 September 2024
The term hardiness is used to indicate that a plant is able to withstand an average winter with very little or no damage to the plant. Some plants, especially those from northern latitudes, should be perfectly hardy, but if induced into growth during mild spring periods, then they may possibly be damaged by late frosts. Other plants may only be hardy if they have had sufficient sun during the summer to ripen their growth. The former plants should not be planted in frost pockets or sheltered positions, and the latter should receive as much sun as possible during the year. Plants not fully hardy may often be accommodated if planted in positions such as against a wall, or amongst, or under other trees and shrubs. Small gardens, particularly in built-up areas may often provide much more warmth and shelter than a larger, or more exposed garden.
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